evocative ermine

I find our responses to colour endlessly fascinating. It’s amazing how, by simply looking at an object, we can so immediately use its palette to visualise another object that might share the same distinctive colouring. And there’s much more to this process than the brain simply using colour to awaken a neural association between two very different kinds of thing that might otherwise seem entirely disconnected. An evocative palette has the power to transport us, in a manner that is effortless and Proustian, to a completely different time and place. Distinctive colours and particular palettes don’t simply suggest things to us, in other words, but can immediately evoke the mood and atmosphere of previous historical eras and places that we’ve never visited, except, perhaps in our imaginations.

Take this photograph, which I showed to Maylin on Slack this morning, as I was sitting down at my desk to write:

Close-up of a light-colored moth with furry features and black spots, perched on a white surface.

Seconds later Maylin replied: “Gosh, that’s beautiful. Reminds me of 1920s Hollywood.”

I could see exactly what she meant. We were both looking at a moth, but our minds immediately conjured Ginger Rogers. . .

Black and white portrait of a woman with blonde hair, wearing a fur shawl, and a subtle makeup look, gazing towards the camera.

. . . all fabulous lines, all fur and feathers . . .

A glamorous woman in a sparkling evening gown poses gracefully against a stylized backdrop with dramatic lighting and abstract shapes.

. . .striking an elegant pose.

A black and white image of a man in a tuxedo dancing with a woman in a fringed dress, showcasing an elegant dance move.

Maylin had not seen this moth before, nor was she aware of the name by which it is familiarly known.

Close-up of a pale cream-colored moth with fuzzy appearance and black spots on its wings, resting on a textured surface.

This is the moth with the Linnean classification of Spilosoma lubricipeda . . .

. . . but which, since the late eighteenth-century*, has had the vernacular English name of “ermine” moth . . .

Close-up of a soft, fluffy white surface with fine hair strands.
there are white and buff ‘ermine’s’, both of which have black spots and furry backs

. . .a moniker which immediately evokes the fur trims of heraldic robes and fashionable outfits . . .

A vintage fashion illustration of a woman in a formal walking dress from the 1830s. She wears a red bolero jacket over a white dress with ruffled layers and holds a decorative shawl. Her wide-brimmed hat features floral embellishments.
Walking dress, 1820. © Victoria and Albert Museum

From the eighteenth century to the twentieth.

Fashion illustration of a woman wearing a blue outfit with a white shawl, adorned with feathers and beads, alongside a smaller sketch of a similar garment.
Elizabeth Handley-Seymour. Dress with ermine trim, muff and hat (1912) © Victoria and Albert Museum

Maylin’s specifically “1920s” associations with this palette of buff and black is spot on in so many ways.

Fashion illustration of a woman wearing a stylish white shawl with decorative fringes, standing in profile. The design includes a sketch of the back view of the shawl.
Worth 1924. © Victoria and Albert Museum

It was the two-tone palette of Charles Worth’s fashionable fur cocoons . . .

Fashion illustration featuring a model wearing a stylish shawl with feather-like patterns, showcasing both front and back views, set against a beige background.
Worth 1927. © Victoria and Albert Museum

. . .Jean Dunand coquille d’œuf vases

A collage of six decorative vases with intricate designs, featuring black surfaces adorned with various patterns and white dots, showcasing artistic craftsmanship.

. . . and the Art Deco straw marquetry (marqueterie de paille) of Jean Michel Frank.

Open decorative wooden box with intricate geometric patterns on the lid and a divided interior.

An ermine palette (happily for stoats) no longer carries the same associations of fashion or luxury in quite the same way as it might have done 100 years ago, but the distinctive colouring of the “ermine” moth can still immediately transport us from our desks on a rainy Thursday morning to that imaginary place of moonlight and love and romance, where Fred and Ginger are forever dancing.

from Follow the Fleet (1936)

What does the palette of the ermine moth suggest to you?

* See Thomas Marsham’s discussion of the ermine moth in Transactions of the Linnean Society (1791)

For a great book exploring the evocative nature of colour more generally, see Michel Pastoureau, The Colours of our Memories (2022)

With thanks to Maylin for prompting today’s colour study and to Tom, for evocative ermine moth photography


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Comments

39 responses to “evocative ermine”

  1. Heather Campbell Avatar
    Heather Campbell

    For me it evokes the mediaeval nobility, who wore ermine cloaks as a sign of their aristocratic standing. You still see it in scholarly gowns and hoods.

  2. Aldstadt Avatar
    Aldstadt

    I immediately thought of a Shaman, then I read your text, yours is more elegant.

  3. Wow, don’t think I have ever seen an ermine moth. I certainly have seen ginger rogers dance! I will look up to see if they live in Virginia. Thanks for the color study.

  4. I always find moths so much more worth closer study than their showier butterfly cousins, and this one is exquisite! The imagery it provokes is fabulously decadent, and you fully expect her to be wearing a beaded flapper dress under her fur coat.
    Thank you for the Fred and Ginger clip … I fell down quite the dancing rabbit hole after clicking the link: an unexpected delight on a rainy day.

  5. Leanna Avatar

    Such a beautiful moth! Nature is sublime.

  6. Absolutely loved this piece thank you. What a coincidence when on Springwatch this evening they did a piece on moths including this very ermine moth!! Also lovely to see Fred and Ginger xx

  7. Lis Barsuglia-Madsen Avatar
    Lis Barsuglia-Madsen

    wow, what great inspiration… We have the ermine here. They are amazing to watch. Never seen the moth though.
    Thank you for keep inspiring us.

  8. Elizabeth Crecelius Avatar
    Elizabeth Crecelius

    I loved this post! It’s like poetry for the eyes…
    Thank you!

    1. Karen Smith Avatar
      Karen Smith

      I love this description! Kate’s posts are indeed ‘poetry for the eyes’, especially when accompanied by Tom’s photography.

  9. It suggests to me that humans are pale by comparison to the ornate beauty of the natural world.

  10. This is amazing! I immediately thought of Queen Elizabeth with the Ermine robes I was so star struck with as a child. Such beauty and elegance.

    I haven’t thought of Ginger Rogers in years but as a child I would watch her old movies and dance my way around the house afterward, dreaming of such a life of glamour while I was “stuck in a rural dairy community in the States.” (:

    The moth is so beautiful as are so many of the world’s inhabitants. Thank you for bringing this to our attention.

  11. gracefullycollective25ea52bfbc Avatar
    gracefullycollective25ea52bfbc

    GASP, that moth took my breath away! Thank you so much for that treat. Me Thistle be a beautiful day! While there is tea there is hope! ________________________________

  12. I love all your essays on color/pattern! And the extra delicious bits of music/ dance are such a treat! Thank you!!

  13. Evelyn Lee Avatar
    Evelyn Lee

    Thank you kate

    Evelyn Lee

  14. barbresnick Avatar
    barbresnick

    Absolutely gorgeous.  That moth looks like royalty dressed for inauguration!

  15. Doris Fishman Avatar
    Doris Fishman

    It’s so interesting to read about how you arrive to some of the most interesting hues and colours. Your articles are always so full of ideas. Thank you for sharing.

  16. Melaura Schmidt Duncan Avatar
    Melaura Schmidt Duncan

    It is amazing to me how the creative process works. My latest has been ferns, the beautiful colors as it unfurls and then later darkens with the seeds on the underneath. Wonderful photos-

  17. JOHN GARRA Avatar
    JOHN GARRA

    How elegant!  Thanks to you and Tom for introducing me to such a fascinating insect.  And all of your other collaborations.  My husband and I love your book on the Drymen Show.  His favorite aunt and uncle built up a championship herd of Jersey cows (who each had her own name), and were extremely active in their local Ionia County Free Fair in central Michigan, U.S.  And I can\’t get over the women, in proper turn-out, driving a huge Clydesdale to a cart. 

    You may be interested in a new book, True Color, by Kory Stamper (Knopf, 2026), about the language of colors, and how to define them in a dictionary.  It\’s in one of my \”to read\” piles, and looks wonderful. 

    Please keep up your fine work and sharing.  And in reminding me that my brain knits so much faster than my hands. 

    Cathy Garra, Evanston, Illinois (immediately north of Chicago, on Lake Michigan)

  18. Brooke Avatar

    Thank you Kate & team. What a wonderful beautiful post… with great links. We need more respect of the complexity & rare beauty of nature and your email was spot on. Blessings about in the colours & forms in nature and time is running out if we do not work diligently to protect them all.
    With appreciation, Brooke from BC Canada

  19. A. M. Townsend Avatar
    A. M. Townsend

    Dear KateThank you very much for your posts

  20. helengibsonbac01e4f45 Avatar
    helengibsonbac01e4f45

    Hi Kate Seeing Ginger in the feathered dress reminded me that I read somewhere that Fred wanted a featherless dress. He lost out and apparently there were feathers everywhere by the time they finished dancing! What a beautiful dance for Let\’s face the music and dance! Best wishes

    >

  21. Moi Shaw Avatar
    Moi Shaw

    What a fascinating post, thanks to you all for taking the time to cheer up a very drizzly Cornish afternoon !

  22. Kat A-L Avatar

    This immediately made me think of ‘the Top Hat dress’ which caused ‘the Top Hat Feather incident’ evocatively described here –
    https://www.cinemahistory.co.uk/the-top-hat-feather-incident/
    – feathers everywhere, Fred cross, Ginger in tears, and yet so beautiful to watch!

  23. I in turn find it most interesting how you interpret colours and a picture of a moth. My brain functions completely different in a way that I see a moth. A beautiful one but a moth. My transfer lies more towards colour and structure, so I do relate to the vases much more than to Hollywood. I understand your text but it would never be my reaction. Thats why I really love those essays as they open the horizon with regard to interpretation.

  24. Monica Hardin Avatar
    Monica Hardin

    I adore your emails! This moth reminded me of chic, sophisticated people. I always dream of having a home in neutral colors like that. But then I see a beautiful red pillow, and I can’t help myself! I have to knit the red pillow.

  25. Each black spot on the ermine fur is a tail tip of the stoat in winter coat. I’m glad it’s something of the past, cos that’s a lot of very small furry creatures to make something wearable.

    I love the moth in her fancy home grown fur coat. It wouldn’t be too difficult to dye up some yarn to match her colourway.

  26. I redently rewatched the film Top Hat, from where the shots of Fred and Ginger come. I’ve always loved the feathered dress. Doing some research I read that Fred didn’t want her to wear that dress because it shed feathers everywhere. But she wore it and it remains an iconic image I think. Apparently he fondly nicknamed her Feathers after that.

  27. mystical2853f9eec3 Avatar
    mystical2853f9eec3

    What an inspirational mid-morning arrival!

    Thank you truly, Kate. A most beautiful collage!

    Rita

  28. Shirley Avatar

    What a beautiful moth! Nature is so inspiring. Thank you.

  29. Miss Stuart Avatar
    Miss Stuart

    The most glamorous moth I\’ve ever seen! Reminded me of Leonardo\’s Lady with an Ermine (Cecilia Gallerani).RegardsDeborah 

  30. Mary Rackard Avatar
    Mary Rackard

    Love these articles and the photography . I don’t knit but still subscribe .

  31. Ilene Bone Avatar
    Ilene Bone

    So much beauty in nature. Thank you for sharing all of Toms photos from your garden.

  32. Thank you for another great email, always so informative and beautiful. And for the wonderful clip of Fred and Ginger- no one comes close to their magical dancing

  33. SARAH LOUISE DART Avatar
    SARAH LOUISE DART

    I think for me the tudor robes of Henry VIII are where my mind goes first when I think of ermine. But that moth is absolutely stunningly beautiful and is a reminder of how much of nature is mimicked across the spectrum.

  34. Anne Goulder Avatar
    Anne Goulder

    Another rather good book on colour is Chromorama by Ricardo Falcinelli

    Enjoyed your piece and the video was spot on… and sublime

  35. My first thoughts were – oh, a beautiful moth! What species is it? Where does it live? Is the colouring an adaptation to their environment?
    One of their German names is White Tigermoth – but ermine moth captures the appearance much more, and it would indeed fit very will into the 1920s.

    It also reminds me of straciatella ice cream ;-).

  36. mairi henderson Avatar
    mairi henderson

    Years ago I rescued this emperor moth soaked by the rain.love your ermine moth.

  37. Sgaron Avatar

    They are beautiful, but do take a look at the extensive webs they make. They would be perfect for Halloween! Astonishing things!

  38. It’s pouring with rain , and yet , you’ve made my morning sparkle. Thank you
    And
    Don’t stop
    Xxx

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