Bláithín

Ok, before I begin, allow me a moment: I think that this is probably the best photograph I have seen of myself in ages. I like it because I look comfortable and physically capable — concepts which, a couple of years ago seemed totally unimaginable. Few people seem to talk about just how bloody uncomfortable it is living in a body that has had a stroke. I am happy to say that this discomfort abates somewhat as time goes on . . . Anyway, for a multitude of reasons, I would heartily recommend a trike to anyone with neurological weakness or balance problems. I love it as you can see . . .

Now I have got that shot of me, wildly gurning, out of the way, I can tell you about the cardigan.

It uses the same motifs as the Peerie Flooers designs, and its name is Bláithín, which means, in Irish “little flower.”

It is knit Donegal yarns, “Soft Donegal” – a squooshy, nubbly, and richly saturated tweed.


It is knit in one piece, and then steeked up the centre. Design features include inset pockets, steek sandwich facings, and i-cord buttonholes.

If you look carefully at the centre right of the photograph above, you’ll see a buttonhole. You’ll also note that there is i-cord around the cuffs and pocket tops. Yes, I do like my i-cord . . .

The i-cord edging is added after all the knitting is complete; it is worked all in one piece, all the way around the cardigan. Here is a shot of the edging worked along the “steek sandwich” buttonband. . .

Here is the edging on the inside of the cardigan, so that you can see the sandwich from the reverse, together with a buttonhole . . .

. . .and here is a buttonhole in action.

One of my aims with this design was for it to be as accessible as possible not only to those knitters who were cautious about steeking, but those who were afraid of colourwork. The yoke design is very simple.

It is also easily-customisable for the more adventurous knitter who would prefer to insert their own yoke design. The pattern repeats are short, and the decreases are worked over a number of plain rows.

Bláithín comes in nine sizes, covering a 30 to a 50 inch bust. The cardigan has a gentle A-line shape and is designed to be worn with 1-2 inches of positive ease. It is soft, warm, and very easy to wear.

Ideal for the novice tricyclist!


The Bláithín pattern is now available, and you’ll find it here or here!

I’ve also designed a wee Bláithín, in babies and girl’s sizes. This pattern will be available very shortly.

That’s all for now – I’m off up North today to look at some wool. See you later!

Deco is here!

At last! I have released Deco! Clearly, I am behind the times in more ways than one – it seems that the Futurists came up with the idea of mirroring skyscrapers on garments long before me:


Fortunato Depero, illustration for American Vogue, 1930.

The more I write up my designs, the more obsessed I become with developing an economy of instruction. The hallmark of the pattern-writing of the designers I most admire – Gudrun springs immediately to mind – is clarity and brevity. I do hope that I’ve achieved that here, and that knitters enjoy the process, as well as the finished result, of their Decos (would you like to see Mel’s recently completed version? How nice is that ribbon trim?)

Anyway, the pattern can now be found here or here!

Well, we’re off for a highland adventure in what Felix has dubbed the ‘wazzwagon’. Hope you all have a lovely weekend, however you are spending it!

of pleats. . . and i-cord

manu

At some point toward the end of last semester, I became distracted in a meeting. There is nothing novel in this situation, except that the source of my distraction was a cardigan. My colleague, Kate C is a very stylish person, and often wears clothes I find inspiring and curiosity-inducing. This cardigan was both. It was a well-made machine-knit piece in a sort of egg-yolk yellow. The fabric was plain stockinette, and a neat fit was created with minimal shaping, except for a feature neckline, formed by a sunburst of pleats. These pleats were very pleasing. They set off the rest of Kate C’s outfit nicely, and made a focal point of the neckline that was both simple and elegant. How I liked those pleats! After the meeting, I talked to Kate C about the cardigan. She had bought it in New York, and, being a knitter herself, completely understood my fascination with the neckline. On the train home that evening, I thought about cardigan construction, and sketched up my own pleaty design. The challenge would be to create a simple garment as elegant and well-fitting as Kate C’s through the use of pleats and gathers, rather than conventional shaping. I drew pleats a-plenty and added puffed-out pockets and gathered wrists (which did not feature on Kate C’s original). Then I went to Skye and I bought this yarn.

shilasdair

You may recall that there were things that troubled me about this purchase. But despite my misgivings about the yarn, I knew that after swatching with it that it was ideal for my pleaty project. It had fabulous drape, some firmness and body, and a pleasing fuzzy halo. Then I did something that will suggest to you the sorry depths of my obsession with clothing and design. I found a dress in Fenwicks that I felt would suit the imagined cardigan ideally: a garment whose sole purpose was to set off an outfit that existed only in my mind. I bought the dress, and hung it in the wardrobe, where it remained unworn while it waited for the cardigan.

Then I began to knit. I began with a provisional cast on, and worked bottom-up, with minimal shaping through the body — just enough to give a slight A-line. The sleeves began with an i-cord cast on, were gathered at the wrist and joined at the yoke. I then shaped the neckline into a deep scoop with what, to myself and my knitting comrades, are known as “Sunday short rows” (so-called because Mel first encountered this technique in a design by the very talented Carol Sunday). These short rows are quite similar to the conventional Japanese method, but I find them much easier to execute and to describe. They are also the neatest method of working short rows I’ve come across, which was important, as I didn’t want traces of the turning points displayed across the cardigan fronts. I then knit the yoke straight to the shoulder line, and reduced two thirds of the stitches by working pleats. Until that point, I had felt like I’d been knitting a sort of giant box — but, as I pleated the top of the cardigan, the box suddenly transformed itself into a shapely garment. Here’s the neckline. I’m hoping that the only trace of the short rows you can really see is that sort of curved line two inches below the pleats.

pleaty

You will note that there is i-cord around the neckline, and will be unsurprised to discover that i-cord features everywhere in the finishing of this garment. It is worked along the pocket tops . . .

pocketses

. . . across the the bottom edge of the cardigan, up the button bands, and forms the button holes. . .

buttonholes

Please take a moment to examine the i-cord buttonhole. Note, if you will, what a neat edge it produces along a garter stitch border. Compare its superior qualities to those of lesser buttonholes. Observe how un-wonky an opening it creates, how there are no stray strands of yarn lurking annoyingly and untidily at its edges. Marvel at its ease of execution; utter a grateful encomium to Elizabeth Zimmermann; and assure yourself that your search for the perfect knitted buttonhole is over! Yes, I heart the i-cord buttonhole!

button3

I found these vintage buttons on e-bay. I like the fact that they are made of glass, that they were (luckily) a precise tonal match for the yarn, and that they have been previously worn and used (as you can see from the button on the left).

When I finished knitting, I asked Kate C to name the design, as she had originally inspired it. She chose Manu, the name of the friend she was visiting in New York, where she bought her cardigan. So here are some shots of Manu from the side:

threewazzags

And a full-length, so you can see the dress too, which with its pleats and pockets, is actually a sort of echo of the cardigan.

manu2b

I found the necklace in Philadelphia, where I finished working up this design. And Philadelphia has inspired another aspect of the pattern, which is now forthcoming. During my afternoon at Rosie’s, I had a chat with smart-and-interesting Lisa about garment design and sizing. She pointed out that my pattern size ranges were rather conservative, and didn’t really accommodate anyone whose body shape tended toward the Rubenesque. The good thing about this style of garment, it seems to me, is that it will fit and flatter most body shapes, including those who actually have a womanly chest, unlike myself. Women of all shapes and sizes successfully wear cardigans with this sort of yoked construction and triangular front opening — as can be seen in the range of knitters who look fabulous in Gudrun’s lovely Moch cardi, or Pam’s incomparable FLS. So, I am designing this pattern to fit a size range from a 30 to a 50 inch bust. More soon!

Name: Manu
By: me. pattern coming soon.
Yarn: Shilasdair ‘luxury’ DK in tansy/indigo.
amount: 3 and-a-bit 100g skeins. Approx 1000 metres.
Needles: 3.75 and 4.5mm. All worked with Addi turbo circs.
Ravelled here.

come back, knitting mojo

Knitting mojo is such a curious thing. I lost mine a few weeks ago. I found myself not knowing what to knit, and not enjoying my knitting — the horror! Out of mild desperation rather than any interest or intent, I began to make some plain socks. Round and round I stitched, listlessly, aimlessly, willing the mojo to return. “These socks are nice enough,” I mused, “but they’re not particularly exciting. . .” Things went on like this for a while, and then I noticed that I was in the unprecedented position of enjoying watching MOTD more than I was enjoying knitting while it happened to be on, viz:

ME (animatedly): “wow! that was an amazing goal-incident! Did you see the way that one of them got the football to the other one and sort of bamboozled those other men before making the goal-incident?”
TOM (tolerantly): “you mean they broke up the defence?”

Something was clearly very wrong! I had to sort it out! I had to reflect critically on the loss of the mojo in an effort to recover it. I did so, and came to the following conclusions . . .

A while back I designed and made Quails. I liked it! Oh, how I liked it! And other knitters seemed to like it too! I wandered around in a lovely, woolly haze, clad in copper-coloured baby llama, with a halo of ravelry hearts* encircling my big swede.** “Why not write a pattern?” said my over-inflated ego, “Why not indeed? Nae bother,” my knitting mojo foolishly replied. Now, there were elements of this cardigan I really liked (the short-row shaping at the bust; the way the two fronts dipped naturally into an A-line) and others that I wasn’t so keen on (the ‘quails’ stitch pattern itself; the visible decreases on the yoke). I would improve these shortcomings in a new version of the cardigan, drafting a pattern (something I never do when making something to my own specs), and writing down any alterations and adjustments while knitting it up a second time.

I bought a yarn I liked – not quite as much as that near-edible baby llama stuff — but a nice yarn nonetheless, and began work on Quails 2. My knitting comrades were very kind. Ysolda helped me figure out (and execute) Japanese short rows, and Melanie offered to test knit when I was done. I had a few hiccups as I encountered the difficulties of accommodating the same stitch pattern to a range of different sizes, but then things progressed up toward the yoke, and were looking pretty good! I kept knitting, and revising, and was pleased with my simple cables inside which all the decreases were hidden. Neat! Edging and finishing approached. I bought blue buttons. I liked the buttons. I attached the buttons. . .

. . . the buttons looked fab. I sewed in the ends and tried on the cardigan. It was a great fit. The neckline dipped, the fronts hung well, the cables stood out, and there wasn’t a decrease or a sign of a short-row to be seen. “That looks really good,” said Tom. This was an excellent cardigan, a superlative cardigan, a cardigan with which there was no problem at all — except that I hated it!

Here is the offending garment:

You will see that the cardigan is modeled by an obliging wooden hanger, rather than myself. The shot was not carefully set up, and taken by Tom, with strict instructions about angles and f-stops. I am not wearing the cardigan together with a carefully co-ordinating outfit and my favourite blue shoes. Nor, you will no doubt note, am I excitedly throwing shapes of any kind. This is because I dislike this cardigan intensely.

Now, I am not sure why this is. Looking at the cardigan objectively, I actually like the colour, the shape, the fit, the yarn, the buttons, and the pattern (which I spent considerable time refining). But when I look at the whole cardigan, I like none of these things at all. I like nothing about this garment apart from the fact that it creates instant warmth when one puts it on. Perhaps this is just one of those odd reactions that clothes sometimes induce. You know what I mean: you like something in a shop, you try it on, you think you look pretty damn hot, you buy the thing, you take it home, then, when it is time to wear it, you find that you just don’t feel right. You feel lumpen and peculiar, uncomfortable, or inadvertent. You feel that while wearing this garment you actually might do something to embarrass yourself. And despite any attempt to uncover exactly why you liked the garment in the first place, and why your feelings about it have now so radically changed, somehow the sheer hideousness of the thing exceeds objective reflection. You relegate it to th’ugly pile and wash your hands of it.

However, I fear there may be something more raw and simple about my reaction to this cardigan, and that something is desire. Several months ago, before I made the first version of Quails, I pictured a cardigan, and I wanted it badly. I spent a long time knitting the cardigan. Now I had the cardigan! My Cardigan Desire was truly sated. Because of the work of Cardigan Desire, re-designing and knitting the garment again were completely superfluous acts. Even though this new incarnation is, in many ways, an improvement on the the original design, Cardigan Desire turns away from it in disgust. For this is not the object Cardigan Desire sought, coveted, pursued and finally possessed! No! This is the object’s pale imitation! An evil double that reveals both the fallibility of the desired-object and the temporary, shallow nature of desire itself!

Bejayzuz. Please save me from myself and tell me what to do. I have hit an impasse. I want nothing more to do with this cardigan. But why? How do I reconcile myself to it? Should I even try to? And most importantly, how does one recover one’s knitting mojo? Help, please.

*ravelry hearts. For non ravelers: These signs of knitterly esteem appear when someone marks your garment or design as a ‘favourite.’
**swede = head.

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