thinking time

February 18, 2013 By Kate in Fair Isle, fairisle, History, knitting, Shetland, textiles, writing Tags: fair isle, fair-isle knitting, fairisle, History, knitting, Lerwick, Shetland, textile history, textiles, writing 29 Comments

Well, I had a fantastic time in Shetland. As I was on my own, I stayed in Lerwick. I really enjoyed meeting up with Shetland friends old and new, and pottering about toon.

But I was there to work — I have a couple of writing commissions in the pipeline, one of which involves producing a short history of Fair Isle knitting for a new (and very exciting) book about Shetland textiles. So I examined a lot of Fair Isle pieces, and I thought a lot about them.

I saw some truly incredible textiles . . .

. . . so many of which defied any idea of the ‘traditional’ in Fair Isle knitting.

(This striking allover features 4 shades of Shetland wool and 3 shades of artificial silk)

(Fair Isle motifs, but not Fair Isle knitting)

(Fair Isle or . . .Tartan?)

So much to think about.

Rowan and me

February 8, 2013 By Kate in design, knitting, writing, yarn, Yorkshire Tags: design, designing, knitting, Rowan, writing, yarn 58 Comments

Some time in 2005, I was walking through the Edinburgh branch of John Lewis when my eye was caught by the display of Rowan yarns and samples. The gorgeous colours of the yarns and the beautiful styling and photography of the pattern books and magazines really grabbed my attention. On the spot, I decided to start knitting again, and picked up several balls of Big Wool in, if I remember rightly, the ‘tomato’ shade. The first thing I turned out was a gigantic tomato-coloured moss-stitch wrap on 10mm needles, and since then I have not looked back. What I’m saying is that it was Rowan’s yarns, designs, and photography — their distinctive and immediately recognisable aesthetic — that inspired me to take up my needles. I am sure that many knitters (and designers) have a similar tale to tell.

I have been writing features for the Rowan Magazine since 2009, and each one has been a pleasure to produce. Marie Wallin always provides suggestive and inspiring editorial briefs; the generous word length allows one to properly get one’s teeth into a topic; and it is genuinely thrilling to see one’s words and photographs laid out in such a well-produced and seriously beautiful magazine. Research for the fine lace feature I wrote for Magazine 50 (A/W, 2011) took me to Shetland — the first of many trips, and, for me, the beginning of another journey.

Although I have worked with Rowan for almost four years, I have never met Marie or the rest of the team. Yesterday I finally had the opportunity to do so, and popped down to Yorkshire to visit Rowan’s Holmfirth HQ.

I had a lovely day. It was both fascinating and inspiring to see behind the scenes, to gain an insight into the complexities of the design and production process from start to finish, and to catch a glimpse (and squoosh) of what knitters will be treated to in future seasons. It was also lovely to put faces to design-room names, and to have the opportunity to chat about future projects in person.

As these photographs will suggest, it was one of those incredibly busy sorts of days when there wasn’t an opportunity to make use of my camera — but these tasty balls of Felted Tweed may give you some indication of various things-in-process. All I’ll say right now is watch this space!

Thankyou, Marie, David, Kate and the rest of the Rowan team for a wonderful introduction to the mill!

Mod

January 18, 2013 By Kate in fashion, writing Tags: Celine, fashion, knitwear, Lisa Perry, mod, modernism, Philip Lim, Rowan, Sonia Delaunay, Yves Saint Laurent 15 Comments

(Delaunay in an outfit of her own design)

Do you remember a little while ago I was having a Sonia Delaunay moment?

(‘Simultaneous’ dress & car upholstery)

Around this time, I was knitting the the Puffin Sweater, and shortly afterward, I wrote a piece about Delaunay which has just been published in Rowan 53.

The brief for my feature was to write something to accompany this Rowan design story . . .

. . . and I felt that the influence of Delaunay was startlingly evident in mod-inspired knitwear collections.

(Delaunay, 1923 / Céline, Autumn / Winter 2010-11)

Delaunay’s proud, modernist vision of garments as wearable art was the starting point of my thinking . . .

(Delaunay celebrated by Vogue in 1925)

. . . but I ended up somewhere rather different.

(Jean Shrimpton in Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian Dress, 1964)

(Lisa Perry & Phillip Lim’s appropriations of Lichtenstein)

You can read more in the magazine!

60 North

May 9, 2012 By Kate in History, knitting, Shetland, writing Tags: History, knitting, Promote Shetland, Shetland, Shetland Lace, writing 18 Comments

Just dropping in quickly to say that the new issue of 60 North is out! What? You’ve never heard of 60 North? The name refers, of course, to Shetland’s line of latitude, and is a really well-produced magazine put out by my friends at Promote Shetland. Features in the magazine explore many different aspects of Shetland’s landscape, archeology, wildlife, and culture – including (of particular interest to me) – a piece on Shetland Wool Week, and a great article exploring the fine local tradition of Sunday Tea. Also, you may remember that last Summer I published a feature exploring the history of Shetland Lace with Rowan. I know that those of you who are not in the UK sometimes find it difficult to get hold of the Rowan Magazine, so we have now re-published this piece in 60 North, where everyone can see it. Yes, that’s right: 60 North is available online and it is completely free! Stick the kettle on and and download yourself a copy!

(Image © Mirrie Dancers Project / Roxanne Permar)

Knit Real Shetland

October 17, 2011 By Kate in design, knitting, Shetland, writing Tags: design, Jamieson and Smith, Knit Real Shetland, knitting, Shetland, Shetland Woolbrokers, writing 23 Comments

Hurrah! Hard copies of Knit Real Shetland are now available to buy from Jamieson & Smith – with free UK shipping! A digital version, for those who prefer it, will also soon be available.

It was a real honour to be asked to write the introduction to this book, celebrating 65 years of Jamieson & Smith. As well as super designs from names that are no doubt familiar to you, Knit Real Shetland also includes gorgeous patterns from designers you may not have heard of but should know: Mary Kay, Hazel Tindall, Lesley Smith, Joyce Ward and Sandra Manson – lovely women all, and talented Shetland knitters.

The official book launch was last Friday evening at the Shetland Museum . I was having so much fun that I managed not to take a single picture of the assembled throng which included 8 of the book’s 15 designers (Gudrun, Mary-Jane, Masami, Mary, Joyce, Hazel, Sandra, and Lesley). So, in the absence of launch photos, I instead present to you Sarah Laurenson, who took on the project, and curated Knit Real Shetland. Sarah’s energy and spirit are behind so many of the good things happening at Jamieson and Smith.

Thanks and congratulations to Sarah!

ETA: free postage within the UK only.

Sunday at Mel’s

September 4, 2011 By Kate in beasties, Kate Davies, knitting, Shetland, writing Tags: Felix, knitting, Mel, moose, Rowan, Shetland, Shetland Fine Lace Project, Shetland Lace 31 Comments

It has been a quiet few days round here. Perhaps inevitably, my burst of hat-related energy was followed by an evil bout of post-stroke fatigue that has been all the more galling because I had been so looking forward to this week. Felix is in Edinburgh, and we had some fun things planned, none of which I have been able to do because I’ve been so damn tired. But happily today I did manage to haul myself out of the house and round to Mel’s for an afternoon of convivial knitting. The magnificent beast at the top of this post is Mel’s cat Moose — perhaps the superlative feline knitting companion. Please to note, in the photograph above, the insistent — yet respectful — way he has claimed Mel’s knitting as his own.

Unlike my own animals, who seem to enjoy disrupting yarn-related activity, Moose is a very calming and relaxing presence. Here, for example, he takes a wee snooze on my knee while the knitterly business of the room goes on around him.

And here he reveals himself as a cat of taste, displaying his approval of a couple of tasty balls of Rowan fine tweed, and Mel’s recently completed Betty Mouat sweaters – yes, that’s plural – of which more later.

Felix is sporting marvelous socks (spoils of a recent trip to Estonia), and knitting up a Deco in John Arbon’s new yarn, inspired by the pastel Art Deco buildings she saw in Miami.

Mel is knitting the Latvian Garden Blanket in some very pleasing shades of Jamieson and Smith.

and I am working on a pair of fingerless gloves to match last week’s hat.

After a tedious few days, it was lovely to spend the afternoon in the company of two of my very favourite people.

. . .and one of my favourite cats.

In other news:

:: I don’t know if the Rowan members out there have already seen the digital edition of Magazine no. 50? There’s all sorts of interesting additional behind-the-scenes content, including photoshoots and video interviews with Rowan’s designers . . . and, if you turn to pages 40-41, you can click through to see another wee video accompanying my feature on Shetland lace. This footage comes from the epic day when Mel, Emma and I drove the length of Shetland, took 8 boats, and braved the queasy horrors of some very choppy water between the mainland and Whalsay, to go and visit Ina Irvine and Hazel Laurenson. Ina and Hazel are two of the talented women involved in the Shetland Fine Lace Project , and, despite my shaky camera, you can get a taste of their marvelous knitting, which is on sale in the Shetland Museum Shop.

:: If you are out and about in Dublin next week, I’ll be at This is Knit’s annual yarn-tasting and am also looking forward to meeting the wonderful knitters who made my blanket. I think the yarn tasting may well be sold out now, but if you’ve booked, I’ll see you there!

As you might imagine, I’m hoping for a bit of an energy boost to carry me across the sea to Ireland. More on my return!

shetland lace

July 19, 2011 By Kate in knitting, Shetland, vegetables, writing Tags: Jamieson and Smith, Kate Davies, knitting, peppers, Rowan, Rowan Magazine 50, Shetland, Shetland Lace, Shetland Lace in a New Light, Shetland Museum and Archives, Shetland Wool Week, Unst Heritage Centre 37 Comments

Excitement! Unable to wait for my copy to turn up in the post, I just popped up to John Lewis to pick up the new Rowan Magazine. Rowan (who will soon be bringing out a new laceweight yarn) wanted a substantial piece on the history of lace knitting and this is what I came up with. I have to say that, out of all the features I’ve researched and written for magazines over the past few years, I am most pleased with this one. Why so? Well, for a start, in contrast to many accounts of Shetland lace as ‘traditional’ knitting, I have what I think is an important argument to make about lace always being an innovatory textile produced in response to the demands of a commercial market and changing fashionable trends. Plus, researching this piece not only gave me an opportunity to celebrate the remarkable creative artistry of Shetlanders and Shetland, but meant that I actually got to go there. Through working on this piece, I met Sarah, Oliver and Sandra at Jamieson and Smith; Carol Christiansen at the Shetland Museum and Archives; the wonderful folk at the Unst Heritage Centre and superlative knitters like Ina Irvine and Mary Kay, who published the Shetland lace patterns that my grandma used to knit from Woman’s Weekly. I heart Shetland! I genuinely loved working on this feature, and in many ways, feel that it marks the beginning of an association that I know will be long-lasting. Perhaps I will see you up there during Shetland Wool Week.

In other exciting news, a pepper has appeared on the plant on the kitchen windowsill.

My First Pepper! Huzzah!

smocks galore!

June 24, 2011 By Kate in design, History, knitting, textisles, writing Tags: design, History, Kate Davies, knitting, smock, smocking, smocks, textile history, Textisles, warriston, Warriston sweater, writing 74 Comments

So, here is my surprise — the Warriston pattern is now published, and when you buy it you will also receive a copy of a new digital magazine, produced and edited by me.

Since 2007, Textisle is the name I’d been using for a large academic project. It is too good a name to go to waste, and Textisles pretty much perfectly describes the content of this new venture – in which, in the context of my new designs, I explore textiles and their history around Britain. I’ve produced it pretty much in the same way that I do my features for Rowan or The Knitter – here you will find ‘scholarly’ or ‘educational’ material, written to appeal to a general audience. The content of Textisles is designed to be read on a computer screen or ipad, but the Warriston pattern is formatted at a higher resolution for printing purposes.

In the first issue you can read ‘Smocks are from Mars’ (in which I look at the gender identities of ‘smocks’ and ‘frocks’) and ‘Cover Up’ (in which I explore the the history of the iconic English ‘smock-frock’). There is also an interview with lovely Claire Smith (who was inspired to experiment with historic embroidery techniques after working with 19th century smocks at the Museum of English Rural Life) as well as a resources page (in which you can find out where to go and see 19th century smocks, or find out more about them). Of course, you don’t have to read any of this if you aren’t interested – if so, just skip straight on to the Warriston pattern and get knitting!

Anyway, I am hoping that knitters will enjoy the content as well as the Warriston pattern in the first issue of TextIsles. It has been produced in the context of the employment issues I described in my last post, and putting it together has really rather cheered me up.

You can now find Warriston, together with issue 1 of Textisles here or here!

today’s news

March 16, 2011 By Kate in design, knitting, writing, yarn Tags: design, Jamieson and Smith, knitting, Shetland, Shetland Fine Lace Project, writing, yarn 18 Comments

The new issue of The Knitter is out, and I have a short piece in it publicising the Shetland Fine Lace Project – an inspiring collaboration between the Shetland Amenity Trust, four fabulous knitters, and the lovely folk at Jamieson & Smith, (whose 1ply laceweight is the closest thing to Victorian handspun that there is). Pick up the magazine to read more about the project! And then pop over to the Shetland Museum and Archives where its impressive results are available to buy at a price that properly reflects the labour and skills of the women involved. I had the pleasure of meeting two of these women–Mary Kay and Hazel Laurenson–when visiting Shetland a few weeks ago. They really are incredible knitters: generous with their skills and knowledge, and passionate about their craft. It was a real privilege to have a cup of tea with Mary, and for Hazel to show me the beautiful Unst lace from the 1880s that she is painstakingly recreating.

Also, do you remember Fugue?

Well, the pattern is now available to buy in kit form from Lilith of Old Maiden Aunt Yarns. The kits come in three tasty colourways and contain the pattern, together with enough yarn to make a cosy set of tam & mitts. Lilith’s yarn is beautifully dyed (of course) and the base is a soft and sheepy corriedale. (I used the same yarn to make the Deco cardigan – pattern now forthcoming – watch this space!)

another feature

January 15, 2011 By Kate in History, textiles, writing Tags: darning, Kate Davies, knitting, make do and mend, mending, Rowan, Rowan 49, rowan magazine, Rowan no 49, stitching 34 Comments

The new Rowan Magazine has just come out, and I have a feature in it, exploring the history of mending, darning, and ‘plain work’. I really enjoyed researching and writing this piece, and working on it became quite important to me during some difficult times over the Summer. In many respects, it is a very “me” sort of piece, and I feel rather happy to see it published. Reading my words, and remembering the ideas behind the writing, reminds me that I stayed me even when I did not feel like me at all (if you see what I mean). I can perhaps give you a quick taste of the feature with a few of the images that Rowan did not use:

Margaret Boxall’s darning sampler (1799). © Ackworth School Estates. You can read more about these beautiful samplers in Carol Humphrey’s super book).

“Two women set up a make do and mend exhibition” (1943) (D14646) ©Imperial War Museum (grateful thanks to Eleanor Farrell at the IWM)

Liz kindly agreed to be my darning model. Here are her hands mending a lovely Hopscotch sock (of her own design) using Felix’s darning egg.

I am also very happy that the wonderful and talented Mandy, and her mother-in-law, Noreen, feature in the feature. And, quite apart from anything else, I reckon that this is a sterling issue of the magazine. I was particularly struck by the ‘Illusion’ story, which showcases some beautiful, airy pieces, set off with Rowan’s characteristically gorgeous photography and Marie Wallin’s great styling. Just the thing to brighten up a dreich January day.

Kate Davies Designs

Category Archives: writing